Berwick to Melrose
The day dawned (I don't really know how it dawned, I was still asleep), bright and clear apart from a few fluffy clouds scudding across the blue sky. I was cheered by the weather and the fact that this was to be my first day with a much lighter load.
I had a very good full English breakfast in the hostel and had the bike loaded and was ready to depart by 9:00. There are some very steep hills in Berwick and as the hostel is down by the river I had to climb up through the town. I elected to push the bike as there are numerous one way systems and narrow streets, the lighter load definitely made this easier, a good start. The route for the day is mainly on quiet country road with little or no traffic rather than on dedicated cycle paths.
Just a little way outside Berwick I crossed the Border into Scotland for the first time, not an impressive crossing but a milestone nevertheless. For most of the trip the route follows the river Tweed, the lanes meander along the valley, sometimes beside the river and sometimes along country lanes through productive farmland. The valley has long had a reputation as one of the most fertile agricultural areas in Scotland. The past wealth of Berwick was based on its location as a port to carry the grain south to places such as Newcastle for brewing and flour milling. Along the way I spotted my first Highland cow, shaggy coat and long horns. There is a mixture of arable farming and stock rearing, both cattle and sheep, all looking very well fed. There were a lot of pheasants too and evidence of feeders; I think there is a lot of shooting here too. The farms look big and affluent, with beautiful old stone buildings.
Soon after Berwick the road crossed the river for the first time, this brought me back into England over a lovely old small suspension bridge more suited to horse drawn transport than modern traffic (which is restricted). Across the bridge the road climbed up the side of the valley past a large honey farm where words of encouragement were shouted as I pedalled past. I would have had to walk with my previous load.
A little further on at Norham was the ruin of yet another castle, there are fewer now on the route, it is no longer 'Coast' and not much 'Castles' either. Just after Norham the road crossed the river Tweed again, this time on a beautiful old stone bridge, I stopped for a few minutes to watch some people fly fishing. Crossing the Border once again back in Scotland the road climbs steeply away from the river and again I had to push.
The route was now towards Coldstream of the Guards fame, they originated here in the days when fighting was was part of daily life. I bypassed the town and continued through back lanes in the direction of Kelso. There was quite a lot of climbing, some I managed, some I didn't and had to get off and push. I don't know much about Kelso apart from the fact it has a racecourse, my route took me right beside the track with it's hurdles and steeplechase jumps. It looked as though they were preparing for a race meeting with lots of watering and grass cutting going on. Before I lightened my load Kelso would have been a days ride, about thirty miles; but I felt carrying on to Melrose was not unrealistic, about another fifteen miles.
The latter part of my day was hard work, partly because of the hills, and partly because I am still not really fit enough. I did lots of stops for snacks and drinks and lots of bike pushing. I was cheered at one point by the appearance of four Guinea Fowl who ran in front of me for quite a distance before they realised that heading for the hedge might be a good idea. Some of you know how dotty I am about these silly birds, I have lots of happy memories associated with them. The route crossed the river once more, this time on a beautiful little suspension bridge, it was just a footbridge and I suspect built largely for the convenience of anglers, very picturesque.
I made it to Melrose in the late afternoon, very tired but happy to have completed about forty five miles.
Good on you, it is really going to get easier as you get fitter, I know I might have mentioned this before, but always good to be reminded!! Sounds lovely, I can´t wait for the pics, hope there is one of the Highland cow!
ReplyDeleteGreat idea to ditch the camping gear. B&Bs sound like a much better idea. Deon and I camped at various place in Scotland - mostly farmer's fields, where you have to make friends with the shaggy cows! Well done. x
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